I surfed this a lot between 1963-65! I can still feel the freedom of being in the tube. I remember the power and explosion of spray on my backside…
Then, the cannon shot out the tube on the other side. I knew in that moment my love for the sea. This is where God speaks to me…
I arrived in Honolulu in early December 1963. It felt like dream come true. My trusty friend and Greg Noll long board was tucked tightly under my arm…
The difference between me and other young surf dudes? I was just out of boot training and radio school, 17 and a half going on 18…
Headed to my 1st duty station, Comsubpac, Pearl Harbor, what do you think was on my mind?
No! It wasn’t starting a new career in the Navy. Well, maybe, I liked radios, crypto, and copying code from Morse Code…
YES! You guessed! It was surfing! And, surfing is what I did before joining the Navy. I was a surf duuude from South Bay…
I was ready, really ready, pumped up, stoked and freaked out. I was thinking about Makaha, Yokahma Bay, Pipeline, Ala Moana, and Honolulu Bay…
I wasn’t thinking about radios and Morse Code. But I did think about where my Greg Noll board would stay in the barracks on the base…
I hit the surf in Honolulu Bay to get my Waikiki fix and a tune up. The North Shore is what I came for. Greg Noll would make history in 1964 at Waimea Bay…
I did come to serve America too! Joining the US Navy was a dream come true…
The winter, summer and fall of 1964 showed me my soul for the first time. It was here on the beaches and in the waves of Honolulu Bay, Haluawi and Ala Moana that moved my soul.
Serving in the US Navy made me feel like a man for the first time back then. It was in this moment my soul was set free on the shores of Honolulu Bay…
